Ahoy there!

At last a day off and time to write so will get you up to date, minus the haul out which will be under separate cover.

We eventually left Solomon Island on the 27th October and it was bitter! Cold fronts from the Great Lakes had brought freezing conditions with them. Night time temperatures at about 30F and day time 50F. Andrew was O.K as Sharon had finished his crocheted Afghan (see previous e-mails) but hers was still on the go and a beach towel makes a poor substitute! The anchorage was getting busier everyday, partly the stormy weather and partly all the 'snowbirds' heading south.

The day we left was cold and breezy but very sunny. Our anchorage that night was our last creek of the Chesapeake and we couldn't resist Antipoison Creek. Legend has it that this creek is where the Native Americans provided Captain John Smith (of Pocahontas fame) with a poultice that counteracted venom from a stingray's dart. It was very peaceful with lots of geese and a stunning sunset.

 

There was some sadness in finally finishing our cruise of the Chesapeake . Memories include anchoring in quiet creeks watching the blue herons fishing at dusk; negotiating dozens of crab pots as we entered small bays and rivers; meeting people who have been extraordinarily welcoming and having fun with guests during the summer months.

 

The following day we made good time to Deltaville and were hauled out in the afternoon. Reversing the boat into the sling was a bit tricky but Andrew and Paragon handled it beautifully. We were staying on board during the haul out and the boat seemed very odd. Apart from being at an angle she felt hard and unforgiving. But we did have access to hot showers, a warm lounge and bicycles to town.  We worked out that during the time we were there we must have cycled over 80 miles and heaven knows the equivalent aerobic class hours going up and down the ladder to the boat! But the weather was kind, blue skies everyday and some days quite warm. The autumn foliage was beautiful with glorious reds and golds .

 

The nice thing about staying put for a while is that you get to meet people. Lucille, a feisty New York lady took us, along with Budd and Lois, to the Urbanna Oyster Festival. We were there for the voluntary services parade, and what a cacophony! In most U.S. small towns the rescue services are run by volunteers and the parade of all the fire engines and auxiliary vehicles was very impressive. And the food! Never have we seen so much in one place! Apart from oysters - cooked in a variety of ways - there were turkey legs resembling Flintstones fast food, crabs, Brunswick stew, Philly steaks, burgers, corn dogs and funnel cakes. Funnel cakes resemble a dinner plate size shredded and reassembled doughnut. Basic topping is sugar but can be augmented with syrup, chocolate or jam!

 

Eventually we were back in the water and we just sat on deck looking about saying 'Isn't this nice!' We were able to borrow the marina's car and did a huge shop at Wal-Mart. Partly to stock up for the I.C.W and also to start stock piling food & alcohol for the Bahamas where both can be expensive and sometimes hard to find. Finally on 13th November we left Deltaville and headed south to Norfolk and the start of the I.C.W. We had an early start and a good run and were anchored up by 2 p.m. Paragon's clean hull and anti-fouling seemed to have made a difference!

 

The following day we left early to start heading south. For anyone new to the I.C.W. the first half day can come as a shock if they have visions of tranquil canals and wildlife. Norfolk is home to the U.S Navy boatyards, over 40 square miles of them, and you sail between huge, menacing, grey battle ships. These are patrolled by small gun boats which shadow you as you pass by. We were approached by a coastguard R.I.B. complete with bow mounted machine gun. They were very charming and wanted us to be aware of the aircraft carrier following us down the channel - as if we hadn't noticed! The other trauma to first time I.C.W users on the first day is the bridges. Swing bridges, bascule bridges, lifting bridges and don't forget the lock, all by lunchtime. But by the time you have cleared the Great Bridge lock the scenery becomes much nicer. We were delayed at the lock but decided to press on to our original choice of anchorages just passed Coinjock even though the sun would have set. This part of the trip has limited anchorages for us but we knew where we going and we had a full moon. Although we didn't need the aggregate pushing barge just as we were nudging in to our chosen spot! From Norfolk to Beaufort we usually passed 3 or 4 a day.

 

The next few days settled into a routine although the weather was varied. Always very sunny we went from shorts, t-shirt and bare feet Wednesday and full foulies and two pairs of socks on Thursday as the warm southerly wind changed to a strong northerly! The route is lined with cypress pines and the scent is reminiscent of the south of France . There are lots of ducks and geese around, and the shooting season has begun. Small boats are camouflaged with the golden-green marsh grass and quite often the gunmen sport full camouflage gear and dark ski masks which can be quite unnerving in the twilight! They also have decoy ducks - one fine example was flapping mechanical wings and scared off all respectable ducks in the area! By Beaufort , North Carolina , the water had changed from the dark peaty brown of the swamp to the blue-green of the Atlantic and our first southbound sighting of the river dolphins. Smaller than their ocean cousins they nearly always swim in pairs and two pairs enchanted us by playing in our wake.

 

We are now at Wrightsville Beach having a day off. A kind English sailor who lives here came across and offered us a car ride to the supermarket which we gratefully accepted. Tomorrow, Monday we head to Southport and the long canal past Myrtle Beach to Georgetown . But the weather not looking so good with a '100 per cent chance of rain'!

 

Andrew is working on the haul out e-mail which will be with you shortly!

 

This brings you up to date with us - what's happening with you all? For most of you e-mails are our only contact and we like to know what's going on!

Warm regards

 

Sharon & Andrew